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Did You Know You Could Slap Statutes? These “Traitor” Statues in Hangzhou

When travellers think of Hangzhou, they picture misty mornings over West Lake, willow-lined causeways, and poetic scenery that inspired emperors and scholars. But just a short walk from the lake’s quieter northern edge lies one of China’s most unusual historical attractions — a pair of iron statues that generations of visitors have slapped, spat on, and cursed.

These are the kneeling statues of Qin Hui and his wife, figures remembered in Chinese history as symbols of betrayal. Unlike most monuments around the world, these statues were never meant to honour. They were built to shame.

And that’s exactly what they still do.

The historical drama behind the statues

To understand why these statues exist, you need to go back to the 12th century.

During the Southern Song dynasty, China was politically fractured. The northern territories had fallen to the Jurchen-led Jin dynasty, and the Song court had retreated south. Amid this crisis rose one of China’s most revered military heroes: Yue Fei.

Yue Fei became famous for his military campaigns against the Jin forces. His victories gave hope to a court in exile and to citizens longing to reclaim lost territory. Over time, he came to embody loyalty, patriotism, and moral integrity.

But politics at court told a different story.

Qin Hui, a powerful chief councillor under Emperor Gaozong, advocated for a negotiated peace with the Jin rather than continued warfare. In the traditional narrative passed down for centuries, Qin Hui orchestrated Yue Fei’s recall from the battlefield and framed him on false charges of treason.

In 1142, Yue Fei was executed in prison.

Peace was signed soon after through the Treaty of Shaoxing, formalising the division between north and south. While Qin Hui retained power during his lifetime, history judged him harshly. Yue Fei was later rehabilitated and elevated to near-mythical patriotic status. Qin Hui’s name, meanwhile, became synonymous with treachery.

A monument designed to condemn

Fast forward to the Ming dynasty. Officials in Zhejiang commissioned a memorial complex around Yue Fei’s tomb near West Lake. This became what we now know as the Yue Fei Temple (also called Yuewang Temple).

Here’s where things get unusual.

Rather than simply honouring Yue Fei, the site also included iron statues of Qin Hui, his wife Lady Wang, and other alleged accomplices. The statues were deliberately crafted in humiliating poses:

  • Kneeling on the ground

  • Hands bound behind their backs

  • Ropes around their necks

  • Heads bowed toward Yue Fei’s tomb

They were originally placed fully exposed in front of the tomb — a permanent display of disgrace.

Unlike statues meant for reverence, these were built as tools of public condemnation. Visitors were expected to see them not as historical curiosities, but as villains deserving scorn.

Yes, people still slap them

For centuries, the public responded exactly as intended.

Records and modern reports indicate that visitors spat on, kicked, cursed, and struck the statues so frequently that they had to be recast multiple times due to damage. Some accounts suggest at least ten replacements over the centuries.

Today, the statues are fenced off to prevent excessive vandalism. But the symbolic ritual remains. Visitors still pose as if slapping them. Some tap the fence in mock blows. Parents bring children to hear the story of loyalty and betrayal.

For many Chinese visitors, the site is not just historical — it’s moral education.

Even food is part of the legend

The story extends beyond the temple grounds.

A popular Chinese breakfast snack, youtiao (fried dough sticks), is widely linked in folklore to Qin Hui and his wife. According to tradition, the two sticks twisted together represent the couple, fried in oil as symbolic punishment for their betrayal.

While historians debate whether this origin story is factual, the association shows how deeply embedded the tale of Yue Fei and Qin Hui is in everyday culture.

What modern travellers can expect

Today, the Yue Fei Temple complex is a well-maintained historical site featuring landscaped gardens, stone carvings, calligraphy panels, and reconstructed halls detailing Yue Fei’s life and military campaigns.

Travellers often highlight several key experiences:

1. A quieter alternative to busy West Lake spots

While West Lake itself can get crowded, the temple grounds are generally calmer, making it a peaceful cultural stop.

2. Strong storytelling appeal

The story of a loyal general betrayed by political intrigue is dramatic and accessible, even for visitors unfamiliar with Song dynasty history.

3. A striking visual contrast

Yue Fei’s dignified tomb and commemorative inscriptions stand in stark contrast to the bound, kneeling statues opposite — a powerful visual narrative of honour versus shame.

However, some travellers note that English explanations are limited. Non-Chinese speakers may benefit from reading about the history beforehand or visiting with a guide.

Plan to spend around 45 minutes to an hour here if you’re including it in a broader West Lake itinerary.

Are there similar statues elsewhere?

Hangzhou’s statues are the most famous, but not the only ones. Several other sites associated with Yue Fei in different provinces have similar kneeling figures of Qin Hui and Lady Wang.

What makes them remarkable isn’t just their existence, but their purpose. Unlike controversial statues in other countries that spark debate over removal, these were created from the outset as condemnatory monuments.

How does this compare globally?

Around the world, statues of controversial figures often become flashpoints.

In Belgium, monuments of King Leopold II have faced vandalism due to his brutal rule over the Congo Free State. In Spain, statues of Francisco Franco have been removed following years of political debate. In South Africa, the statue of Cecil Rhodes was taken down during the “Rhodes Must Fall” movement. In the UK, protesters toppled a statue of Edward Colston into Bristol Harbour.

In many of these cases, societies debate whether controversial monuments should remain standing.

China’s approach with Qin Hui is different. Rather than removing him from public memory, history reshaped him into a permanent warning.

Why this site stands out

What makes the Qin Hui statues so compelling is the inversion of what monuments typically represent.

Statues usually glorify power and prestige. Here, they strip it away. The medium of bronze and iron — normally reserved for heroes — is used to preserve disgrace.

For travellers, especially those from Southeast Asia where debates over historical memory also surface from time to time, the site offers a fascinating case study in how collective memory is shaped. It’s not just about scenic beauty or ancient architecture. It’s about how societies decide who to honour — and who to condemn.

Walking past Yue Fei’s restored tomb and facing the kneeling figures opposite, you can feel the emotional weight embedded in the landscape. Eight centuries later, the story still provokes reaction.

And perhaps that’s the real reason people still line up to slap the statues.

They aren’t just touching metal.

They’re participating in history.

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About Author

Ker Ming

Born and bred in Penang, Ker Ming enjoys spending his days going on hikes, and reading a good book while sipping tea. He hopes to share tips and tricks that will help make your travels more enjoyable, convenient, and fun.

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